THE BETROTHAL AFTER A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY CANVASWORK PICTURE
The tent stitched subjects in this design were excerpted from a
mid-seventeenth century canvaswork picture depicting a cavalier and a lady. The
scene is one of the most non-biblical subjects found on canvasworks made between
1640 and 1660 in England, and were often made as betrothal or marriage
portraits. The careful depiction of costume is noteworthy in this fine example.
In almost every example, the gentleman stands on the right, the lady on the
left. The name of the stitch used - tent stitch - comes from the French word
tenter, meaning to stretch, as the work in progress was usually stretched over a
frame (or tent). Tent stitch, worked in silk or wool thread on a linen canvas,
was probably the most common embroidery technique used in the seventeenth
century. It created a durable object, was easy to execute, and fine enough to
produce delicately shaded designs that approximated the look of very expensive
and rare woven tapestries, affordable only by the very wealthy.
The lady's costume was the popular fashion in England around the reign of
Charles I, revealing a higher waist and full sleeves on her jacket. Ribbons
adorn her sleeves and bodice (ribbon was also used to fasten the cuffs). The red
overdress exposes a variegated blue under-dress. She is holding a fan.
The gentleman's doublet shows fashionably slashed sleeves: open seams at the
front of the sleeves which were intended to allow the shirt underneath to be
seen. Turned back cuffs, or possibly floppy hounds - ear formal cuffs, protrude
at his wrists. The pointed tabs below the waist of the doublet would have had
eyelet holes to support the breeches, by lacing them to the doublet. The front
of the doublet was stiffened inside with two triangular shaped belly pieces,
keeping the doublet's shape and ensuring good posture, similar to a lady's
corset. (In fact whalebone was sometimes used in doublets as well as corsets.)
His substantial leather boots are covered with half shoes at the bottom, and
bear spurs. A sophisticated use of artistic foreshortening in the design of his
left leg enhances his swaggering posture. His broad-brimmed hat and turndown
collar were all fashion statements popularized by King Charles I. The buttons
and buttonholes on his doublet front and sleeves and trousers were created with
French knots, applied after the tent stitch design is completed.
Worked on 35 count linen, in petit point, the finished panels will measure
approximately 3-1/2"x6".
Kit with silk floss: $125.00
Graph only: $10.00